Silver & Jewelry Terminology Glossary — 150+ Terms with Pronunciations
Reference Glossary · 147 terms
Silver & Jewelry Terminology Glossary
A free A–Z reference of silver and jewelry vocabulary: alloys, hallmarks, processes, tools, finishes, and period styles. Each entry includes IPA pronunciation and links to related references.
147 terms · Ctrl+F also works
9
958 silver /naɪn faɪv eɪt/
Britannia-grade silver, 95.84% pure. See Britannia silver.
See: Britannia silver
925 silver /naɪn tuː faɪv/
Sterling grade silver, 92.5% pure. See Sterling silver.
See: Sterling silver
A
Alloy /ˈæl.ɔɪ/
A metal made by combining two or more metallic elements; sterling silver is a copper-silver alloy.
See: Sterling silver · Fine silver
Annealing /əˈniː.lɪŋ/
Softening work-hardened metal by heating to a specific temperature, then cooling. Necessary between forming passes.
See: Work hardening · Quench
Antique silver /ænˈtiːk/
A darkened patina finish; also a trade term for silver pieces older than ~100 years.
See: Patina
Argentium /ɑːrˈdʒɛn.ti.əm/
A sterling-grade silver alloy (935 or 960) with germanium replacing part of the copper, giving high tarnish- and firescale-resistance.
See: Sterling silver · Firescale Ref: argentiumsilver.com
Assay /əˈseɪ/
Official test of a metal's precious-metal content; legally required before hallmarking in most jurisdictions.
See: Hallmark · Fineness
Assay office /əˈseɪ ˈɒf.ɪs/
A government-authorized body that tests and stamps precious metal. UK offices: London, Birmingham, Sheffield, Edinburgh.
See: Hallmark Ref: theassayoffice.co.uk
Anti-tarnish strip /ˈæn.ti ˈtɑːr.nɪʃ/
A paper or cloth treated with an absorbent that captures atmospheric sulfur; slows tarnish in stored silver.
See: Tarnish
Aqua regia /ˌɑː.kwə ˈreɪ.dʒi.ə/
A mix of concentrated nitric + hydrochloric acid; dissolves gold and platinum. Silver forms insoluble AgCl instead.
B
Bezel /ˈbez.əl/
A metal collar that holds a stone by crimping a rim around its girdle; the most common setting style for cabochons.
See: Cabochon
Bright-cut /braɪt-kʌt/
Engraving technique producing a faceted mirror finish inside the cut, common on Georgian and Edwardian silver.
See: Engraving
Britannia silver /brɪˈtæn.i.ə/
95.84% Ag alloy; UK standard mandated 1697–1720, still legally marked today.
See: Fineness · Hallmark
Bullion /ˈbʊl.jən/
Investment-grade precious metal in bar, ingot or coin form, traded by weight and fineness.
See: Fineness · Troy ounce
Burnish /ˈbɜːr.nɪʃ/
Smoothing a metal surface by rubbing with a harder polished tool; produces a mirror finish without removing material.
See: Polish
Basse-taille /bæs ˈtɑː.i/
Translucent enamel over an engraved or chased pattern; light reveals the relief beneath.
See: Enamel
Bobèche /boʊˈbɛʃ/
A disc around a candlestick's socket that catches dripping wax; common on silver candelabra.
Burnisher /ˈbɜːr.nɪʃ.ər/
A smooth hardened tool used to burnish surfaces or bezel settings without removing metal.
See: Burnish
C
Cabochon /ˈkæb.ə.ʃɒn/
A stone cut with a smooth domed top and flat back, no facets. Most commonly set in bezels.
See: Bezel
Casting /ˈkæst.ɪŋ/
Forming metal by pouring or injecting molten alloy into a mold (sand, cuttlefish, lost-wax, centrifugal).
See: Lost-wax · Cuttlefish casting
Chasing /ˈtʃeɪ.sɪŋ/
Pushing metal into relief from the front using small punches and a hammer. Paired with repoussé from the back.
See: Repoussé
Chenier /ʃəˈnɪər/
Seamed silver tubing used for hinges and bead stringing.
Cire perdue /sɪər pɜːrˈduː/
French for 'lost wax' — casting technique where a wax model is surrounded by investment and melted out.
See: Lost-wax · Investment
Cloisonné /ˌklɔɪ.zəˈneɪ/
Enamel technique where wire walls divide cells of colored glass fused to a metal base.
See: Enamel · Plique-à-jour
Coin silver /kɔɪn/
US 900-fineness alloy (90% Ag + 10% Cu), historically melted from currency; stamped COIN.
See: Fineness
Cold connection /koʊld/
Any join made without heat — rivets, tabs, threaded fasteners; an alternative to solder.
See: Rivet
Cuttlefish casting /ˈkʌt.əl.fɪʃ/
Casting into a split cuttlefish bone, leaving a fine linear ripple texture on the finished piece.
See: Casting
Champlevé /ʃɒ̃.pləˈveɪ/
Enamel technique where cells are cut or engraved into a thick metal base, then filled with colored enamels.
See: Enamel
Cleaning cloth (silver) /ˈkliː.nɪŋ/
A treated cotton cloth impregnated with mild abrasive + tarnish inhibitor; first-line tarnish removal.
See: Tarnish
Centrifugal casting /sɛnˈtrɪf.jə.ɡəl/
Casting technique where molten metal is thrown into the mold by a spinning arm; common for small jewelry components.
See: Casting
Chaton /ʃaˈtɔ̃/
A small round faceted stone; also a prong setting specifically sized for one.
See: Prong
Crucible /ˈkruː.sɪ.bəl/
A refractory cup in which silver is melted before casting or alloying.
See: Casting
Cuttings /ˈkʌt.ɪŋz/
Scrap sheet and wire left from fabrication; collected, refined, and sold back as bullion.
D
Date letter /deɪt ˈlet.ər/
UK hallmark element: a letter in a specific font + cartouche indicating the year of assay. Each office has its own cycle.
See: Hallmark · Assay office Ref: UK date letters chart
Die striking /daɪ ˈstraɪk.ɪŋ/
Stamping metal sheet between hardened steel dies; common for mass-produced jewelry components.
See: Casting
Doming /ˈdoʊm.ɪŋ/
Forming a sheet disc into a hemisphere using a doming block and punches.
Draw plate /drɔː/
Hardened plate with progressively smaller holes used to pull wire down to thinner gauges.
E
Electroforming /ɪˌlɛk.troʊˈfɔːrm.ɪŋ/
Building up a thick metal shell by electro-deposition onto a conductive mandrel, which is then removed.
See: Electroplating
Electroplating /ɪˈlɛk.troʊˌpleɪt.ɪŋ/
Depositing a thin metal layer (gold, rhodium, silver) onto a base by electrolysis. Typical thickness 0.5–2.5 µm.
See: Rhodium plating · Vermeil
Enamel /ɪˈnæm.əl/
Colored glass fused onto metal in a kiln at 750–820 °C. Techniques include cloisonné, champlevé, plique-à-jour, Limoges.
See: Cloisonné · Plique-à-jour
EPNS /ˌiː.piː.ɛnˈɛs/
Electroplated Nickel Silver — silver-plated nickel base; not solid silver despite appearance.
See: Silver plate
Etching /ˈɛtʃ.ɪŋ/
Removing metal chemically via acid (nitric, ferric chloride) through a resist stencil.
Engraving /ɪnˈɡreɪv.ɪŋ/
Cutting lines, letters, or images into metal with a sharp hand tool (graver) or rotary burin.
See: Bright-cut
Ethical sourcing /ˈɛθ.ɪ.kəl/
A practice of selecting materials whose origin meets stated environmental, labor, and human-rights standards.
See: Fair-mined silver · Recycled silver
Ear post /ɪər poʊst/
The straight wire that passes through the earlobe on a stud earring; typically 10–11 mm long, 0.8–0.9 mm diameter.
F
Fair-mined silver /fɛər maɪnd/
Silver certified by the Fairmined standard to originate from small-scale miners operating under social + environmental criteria.
See: Ethical sourcing Ref: fairmined.org
Filigree /ˈfɪl.ɪ.ɡriː/
Ornamental openwork of fine twisted wire soldered into delicate patterns; traditional in Portuguese, Greek, and Indian silver.
Fine silver /faɪn/
Silver of ≥99.9% purity; too soft for most wear jewelry but essential for fusing, PMC, and high-end bullion.
See: Fineness · PMC
Fineness /ˈfaɪn.nəs/
The proportion of pure silver in an alloy, expressed per 1000. Sterling = 925. Britannia = 958. Coin = 900.
See: Sterling silver · Britannia silver
Finial /ˈfɪn.i.əl/
Decorative end-piece of a handle, lid or spoon; distinctive to period silverware styles.
Firescale /ˈfaɪə.skeɪl/
A dark purplish layer of copper oxide that forms beneath the surface of sterling during soldering. Difficult to polish out.
See: Pickle · Argentium
Flatware /ˈflæt.wɛər/
Knives, forks, spoons and serving pieces; a major 19th-century US silver market.
Flux /flʌks/
A paste or liquid applied before soldering to dissolve oxides and help solder flow. Common: borax, Handy Flux, Pripps.
See: Solder · Pickle
French wire /frɛntʃ waɪər/
Fine coiled wire used to protect stringing silk where it enters a clasp; also called 'gimp'.
Fusing /ˈfjuːz.ɪŋ/
Joining fine silver pieces by bringing them to the edge of melting without solder; widely used for granulation.
See: Granulation · Fine silver
FTC jewelry guides /ɛf tiː siː/
US Federal Trade Commission rules defining marketing terms: sterling, vermeil, plated, filled, etc.
See: Vermeil Ref: FTC guides
G
Gauge /ɡeɪdʒ/
A number that specifies sheet thickness or wire diameter. Lower B&S gauge = thicker.
German silver /ˈdʒɜːr.mən/
A copper-zinc-nickel alloy containing no silver at all; used as a silver-look base. Also called 'nickel silver'.
See: Silver plate
Granulation /ˌɡræn.jʊˈleɪ.ʃən/
Attaching tiny silver spheres to a surface without solder, using eutectic bonding. Revived by Etruscan goldsmiths.
See: Fusing
Gold-filled /ɡoʊld fɪld/
A base metal with a bonded gold outer layer at ≥1/20 of total weight (US). Much thicker than plating.
See: Electroplating · Vermeil
Gold-plated /ɡoʊld ˈpleɪ.tɪd/
Any gold electro-deposit; no minimum thickness in many markets. Distinct from vermeil, which has legal thickness.
See: Electroplating
Gimlet /ˈɡɪm.lət/
Small hand-held boring tool; occasionally used in silver for starting a hole before drilling.
H
Hallmark /ˈhɔːl.mɑːrk/
Official stamp(s) on precious metal that certify origin, fineness, maker, and year. UK system is the oldest continuously-enforced.
See: Assay office · Date letter · Maker's mark Ref: What is a hallmark (UK)
Hanovar mark /ˈhæn.oʊ.vɑːr/
A historic German city mark on silver; see country-specific charts.
See: Hallmark
Hand-raised /hænd reɪzd/
Formed by hand hammering rather than cast or spun; a mark of high-craft silverwork.
See: Raising
Hammerstone texture /ˈhæm.ər stoʊn/
A controlled faceted surface left by a round-head chasing hammer; contemporary studio finish.
Hinge /hɪndʒ/
A pin-and-knuckle joint allowing two parts to pivot; used in lockets, bangles, and box clasps.
Holloware /ˈhɒl.oʊ.wɛər/
Hollow silverware: bowls, pitchers, teapots, as opposed to flatware.
I
Inclusion /ɪnˈkluː.ʒən/
Foreign material trapped inside a stone or metal; in silver, usually pinpoint copper or carbon.
Investment /ɪnˈvɛst.mənt/
Plaster-like slurry surrounding a wax model in lost-wax casting; burns out the wax and holds the metal shape.
See: Lost-wax · Sprue
Inlay /ˈɪn.leɪ/
Setting one material flush into another — silver inlay in wood, or stone inlay in silver.
J
Jeweler's rouge /ˈdʒuː.əl.ərz ruːʒ/
A fine iron-oxide polishing compound used for the final high polish of silver and gold.
See: Polish
Jump ring /dʒʌmp rɪŋ/
A small ring used to link findings; supplied either split (open) or soldered (closed).
K
L
Liver of sulfur /ˈlɪv.ər əv ˈsʌl.fər/
A potassium sulfide compound used to chemically blacken silver for oxidized finishes and antique patinas.
See: Patina
Loupe /luːp/
A small magnifying lens (typically 10×) used to inspect hallmarks, stones, and solder seams.
See: Hallmark
Lost-wax /lɒst wæks/
Casting process where a wax model is invested, burned out, and replaced by molten metal. Origin 4000+ BCE.
See: Cire perdue · Investment
Lost-foam casting /lɒst foʊm/
Variant of lost-wax using foam patterns that vaporize on metal contact; rare in jewelry, common in industrial casting.
See: Lost-wax
M
Maker's mark /ˈmeɪ.kərz/
Registered symbol struck by a silversmith on each piece, identifying the workshop. Legally required alongside UK hallmarks.
See: Hallmark · Assay office
Mandrel /ˈmæn.drəl/
A tapered steel or wood form used to shape rings, bracelets, or bezels. Ring mandrels are sized.
Matte finish /mæt/
Non-reflective surface texture; achieved by sandblasting, fine abrasive brushes, or acid etching.
Milgrain /ˈmɪl.ɡreɪn/
A fine beaded edge decoration; traditional on Edwardian settings, revived in contemporary bridal work.
Mokume-gane /ˌmoʊ.kuː.meɪˈɡɑː.neɪ/
Japanese lamination of dissimilar colored metals into a wood-grain pattern, then forged or rolled thin.
N
Nickel silver /ˈnɪk.əl/
Cu-Ni-Zn alloy containing no silver at all; used as a base for silver-plated wares. Also called German silver.
See: German silver · Silver plate
Niello /niˈɛl.oʊ/
A black sulfide inlay fired into engraved lines on silver; Russian, Thai, and Greek tradition.
See: Engraving
Niobium /naɪˈoʊ.bi.əm/
A refractory metal sometimes used alongside silver; anodizes to vivid colors. Not a silver alloy component.
Nitric acid test /ˈnaɪ.trɪk/
A quick field test: dilute nitric acid turns copper-bearing silver greenish. Destructive — only on scrap or unseen spots.
See: Fineness
Non-ferrous /nɒn ˈfɛr.əs/
Metals not containing significant iron — includes all precious metals and most jewelry alloys.
O
Oxidized finish /ˈɒk.sɪ.daɪzd/
Intentional darkening of silver using liver of sulfur or similar, often selectively burnished back to highlight texture.
See: Liver of sulfur · Patina
P
Patina /pəˈtiː.nə/
A surface coloration formed by chemical reaction — either natural aging or deliberate application.
See: Oxidized finish · Liver of sulfur
Pavé /pəˈveɪ/
Setting style where many small stones are set close together to cover a surface like paving.
See: Setting
Piercing /ˈpɪər.sɪŋ/
Cutting openwork patterns through sheet metal with a jeweler's saw.
Pickle /ˈpɪk.əl/
A warm acidic solution (sodium bisulfate or citric acid) used to dissolve flux and oxides after soldering.
See: Flux · Firescale
Plique-à-jour /pliːk.ˈaː.ʒʊər/
Enamel technique where the enamel fills cells with no metal backing, like miniature stained glass.
See: Enamel · Cloisonné
PMC /piː.ɛm.siː/
Precious Metal Clay — a mix of fine silver particles, water and binder. Sculpted wet, kiln-fired to leave dense silver.
See: Fine silver
Poinçon /pwɛ̃.sɔ̃/
French hallmark. Minerva head = 1st standard silver (950); Boar's head = 2nd standard (800 export).
See: Hallmark
Polish /ˈpɒl.ɪʃ/
Smoothing a metal surface with progressively finer abrasives until it becomes reflective.
See: Rouge · Burnish
Prong /prɒŋ/
A vertical wire that bends over a faceted stone to hold it; most common in ring settings.
See: Setting
Pewter /ˈpjuː.tər/
A tin-based alloy (historically with lead, now antimony-copper) resembling dull silver. Not a silver alloy.
Pickle pot /ˈpɪk.əl pɒt/
Dedicated crock-pot or electric warmer for pickle solution; usually kept at ~55 °C.
See: Pickle
Pitch bowl /pɪtʃ/
A heavy bowl of jeweler's pitch used as a compliant backing for chasing and repoussé.
See: Chasing · Repoussé
Porosity /pəˈrɒs.ɪ.ti/
Microscopic voids in cast silver caused by trapped gases; visible as pits after polishing.
See: Casting
Portuguese filigree /ˈpɔːr.tʃə.ɡiːz ˈfɪl.ɪ.ɡriː/
Regional filigree style centered on Gondomar, Portugal; characterized by fine twisted wire heart forms.
See: Filigree
Q
R
Raising /ˈreɪ.zɪŋ/
Forming a hollow vessel by hammering a flat sheet down over stakes; central technique of traditional silversmithing.
See: Sinking
Recycled silver /rɪˈsaɪ.kəld/
Silver reclaimed from industrial scrap, electronics, or post-consumer metal and refined back to ≥99.9% purity.
See: Fair-mined silver · Fine silver
Repoussé /rəˈpuː.seɪ/
Pushing relief from the back of a sheet using punches. Usually paired with chasing from the front.
See: Chasing
Rhodium plating /ˈroʊ.di.əm/
Electroplated layer of rhodium (Pt-group metal) applied to silver or white gold for brightness and tarnish-resistance. Wears off over 6–24 months.
See: Electroplating
Rivet /ˈrɪv.ɪt/
A small tube or wire used to mechanically join metal layers without solder; a type of cold connection.
See: Cold connection
Rose cut /roʊz kʌt/
Flat-backed gem cut with triangular facets rising to a point. Common in Georgian jewelry before the brilliant cut.
S
Sheffield plate /ˈʃɛf.iːld/
Fused silver + copper sheet invented 1743 by Thomas Boulsover; largely replaced after 1840 by electroplating.
See: Silver plate
Silver plate /ˈsɪl.vər pleɪt/
Base metal (copper, nickel-silver) coated with a thin layer of silver. Marks: EPNS, EP, Silver Plate, A1.
See: EPNS · Sheffield plate
Sinking /ˈsɪŋ.kɪŋ/
Forming a shallow bowl by hammering sheet down into a depression in a block; precedes raising.
See: Raising
Solder /ˈsɒd.ər/
Silver alloy designed to melt below the parent metal; graded extra-easy / easy / medium / hard / extra-hard by flow point.
See: Flux
Sprue /spruː/
A wax channel attached to a model for molten metal to enter the investment cavity during casting.
See: Investment · Lost-wax
Sterling silver /ˈstɜːr.lɪŋ/
A silver alloy of 925/1000 fineness; the most widely-used jewelry-grade silver alloy worldwide.
See: Fineness · S925
S925 /ɛs naɪn tuː faɪv/
An abbreviated mark for sterling silver used on East-Asian-produced jewelry; identical to 925.
See: Sterling silver
Swage block /sweɪdʒ/
A heavy steel block with channels of various profiles, used for shaping wire and rod.
Silver nitrate /ˈnaɪ.treɪt/
AgNO₃; used in photography, plating baths, and medical antiseptics. Stains skin dark brown.
Stamping /ˈstæm.pɪŋ/
Making a relief impression in metal with a hand punch or die.
See: Die striking
Stretched sizing /strɛtʃt/
Enlarging a ring on a mandrel with a hammer — possible only within a narrow range without compromising structure.
Swedish silver /ˈswiː.dɪʃ/
Historic Swedish silver is often hallmarked with three crowns + S + city mark; standards typically 830 or 925.
See: Hallmark
T
Tarnish /ˈtɑːr.nɪʃ/
A thin layer of silver sulfide that forms on silver exposed to sulfur in air, food, wool or rubber. Polishes off.
See: Firescale · Patina
Toning /ˈtoʊn.ɪŋ/
Light oxidation on coins or medals; collectible when even and attractive, undesirable when blotchy.
See: Tarnish
Troy ounce /trɔɪ/
Unit of weight used for precious metals: 31.1035 g. Twelve troy ounces = one troy pound.
See: Bullion · Fineness
Tufa casting /ˈtuː.fə/
Casting into a soft volcanic-stone mold; associated with Navajo and Hopi silversmiths.
See: Casting
Tumbler /ˈtʌm.blər/
A rotating or vibrating barrel filled with media (steel shot, ceramic) for polishing or deburring.
See: Polish
Taper /ˈteɪ.pər/
Progressive change in cross-section, especially in ring shanks or bangle profiles.
Tarnish inhibitor /ˌɪnˈhɪb.ɪ.tər/
Coatings or additives (benzotriazole, lacquer) that slow tarnish on silver display pieces.
See: Tarnish
Tripoli /ˈtrɪp.ə.li/
A coarse brown polishing compound used with muslin wheels before final rouge.
See: Polish
Two-tone /tuː toʊn/
A finished piece combining two metal colors; typical 25hours usage: sterling silver + 18K gold-plated accents.
U
Unmarked silver /ʌnˈmɑːrkt/
Silver without legible hallmarks; may still be sterling, but requires a chemical or XRF test to verify fineness.
See: Hallmark
V
Vermeil /ˈvɜːr.meɪ/
Sterling silver plated with ≥10K gold at ≥2.5 µm thickness. Legally defined in US FTC jewelry guides.
See: Electroplating Ref: FTC jewelry guides
Vacuum casting /ˈvæk.juːm/
Casting method where molten metal is drawn into the mold by vacuum rather than centrifugal force.
See: Casting
W
Wire-drawing /waɪər/
Pulling wire through progressively smaller holes in a draw plate to reduce its diameter.
See: Draw plate
Work hardening /wɜːrk/
Progressive increase in hardness (and brittleness) as silver is bent, hammered, or drawn; reversed by annealing.
See: Annealing
Wire brush (brass) /ˈwaɪər brʌʃ/
A soft brass-wire rotary brush used on silver for satin finish; does not scratch like steel wire.
See: Matte finish
X
XRF /ɛks ɑːr ɛf/
X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy — non-destructive assay used by refiners and assay offices to read alloy composition in seconds.
See: Assay
Y
Yellow gold plating /ˈjɛl.oʊ/
Electroplated gold layer typically over silver; color is tuned by the plating bath composition.
See: Electroplating
Z
Zamak /ˈzæm.æk/
A zinc-aluminum die-casting alloy used for costume jewelry; not a silver alloy.